'I drink it when I am happy and when I'm sad. Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I'm not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it - unless I'm thirsty."
So said Lilly Bollinger, the last great icon of the Bollinger family, about the Champagne produced by her family firm.
Bollinger is one of only three...
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