Wednesday October 28, 2020

Wine: A saintly offering

French wine villages don’t come more picturesque than the hamlet of St-Émilion, which possesses a richer and more storied history than most, writes Tomas Clancy.

4th May, 2014
St-Émilion: it took the Romans a matter of minutes to discover that Bordeaux is ideal for wine production. Picture: Getty

The first thing that strikes you when you walk into St-Émilion – cars are forbidden – is the crowded silence. By keeping cars and tourist coaches at the edge of the village, you immediately get the hubbub of medieval life, the shuffle of foot on cobble, the sound of chatter.

However, this is only a secondary sensation, because the first and most powerful experience is the waft of baking. Tiny, wafer-thin almond biscuits...

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