Three to have...with pancakes

Capable of bridging the savoury and sweet gap, pancakes can match wines with surprising ease. For the traditional butter and sugar affair, this simple, slightly over-buttery chardonnay is a glorious elevator of creamy opulence. (82) Cimarosa, Private Reserve Chardonnay, Chile 2003, €5, Lidl stores nationwide:

For the savoury pancake - particularly one that crosses the sweet and sour divide - this elegant cabernet has real potential. An initial attack of polished high, sweet ...