Stephen Bull, the great self-taught chef and restaurateur, was my first contact with liberal England - an England that most Irish people of my background and generation never got to see.
He introduced me to his buddies, including Rowley Leigh and Alistair Little, and a whole lot of non-foodie people.
It was at his Blandford Street restaurant that I really tested myself and got to master Mediterranean food before realising that, ultimately, it was not...
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