Terroir taken to task by talent

While some believe that only terroir and tradition can produce great wines, others put their faith in the skills and dedication of the people who make wine from scratch, writes Tomas Clancy.

20th October, 2013
A vineyard in Sancerre, where terroir is more important to wine drinkers than the grape. Photo: Getty

At first glance, the idea of terroir seems to be fairly simple, even self-evident. The key terroir concept asserts that it is the unique, given conditions of a particular place that create a unique, given wine, cheese or even chicken.

It has meant that for generations, wine produced in certain parts of Europe has not been described in terms of a particular grape or variety.

It is the land, the terroir, that is expressed. So...

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