Italy's wines and vineyards have been fought over since long before the unification of Italy was imperfectly and inconclusively achieved by Garibaldi. Under the surface, the country remains a collection of fiercely competitive city states and respective hinterlands, and this is transposed into its wines.
Now billionaires such as Chelsea owner Roman Abramovich scour Tuscany; US corporate giants plunder Chianti and southern Italy; and films stars dig in their vines in Sicily. Ireland is in...
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