Rebel wines lead the way in Italy

Italy's wines and vineyards have been fought over since long before the unification of Italy was imperfectly and inconclusively achieved by Garibaldi. Under the surface, the country remains a collection of fiercely competitive city states and respective hinterlands, and this is transposed into its wines.

Now billionaires such as Chelsea owner Roman Abramovich scour Tuscany; US corporate giants plunder Chianti and southern Italy; and films stars dig in their vines in Sicily. Ireland ...