Portugal’s splendid isolation

Portugal’s rugged, sparsely populated Alentejo region is a treasure trove of old-fashioned charm, affordable luxury and memorable cuisine

20th February, 2010

The landscape of Alentejo is defined by its trees : the forked branches of dark oaks with their generous bouquets of leaves; the looming eucalyptus that enlivens the skyline and leaches the soil; the small olive trees, freshly stripped in December, like upside-down dancers waving elegant limbs in the air, their heads in the soil.

These trees tell the story of the region, too; the ancient oaks whisper its history, the stripped cork barks hold the...

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