Obey the new cellar rules

Revered wine critics Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson regularly give anticipated maturity guidance in their reviews.

Revered wine critics Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson regularly give anticipated maturity guidance in their reviews. Most guidelines, such as ‘Maturity 2030-2040' have an air of science fiction about them.

I often wonder what sort of restaurants will be around in, say, 2040, to uncork the wine. Last week, I had an opportunity to engage in a little time travel myself, leaping 23 years forward from the great Bordeaux vintage of 1982.

One ...