Kitchen junkie

In search of something different, author and editor Bill Buford gave up his job at The New Yorker to become an unpaid trainee at one of New York’s top restaurants.

Bill Buford places a green napkin gently on the table and removes his knife from his smoked salmon platter. He holds the knife with its tip pressed down onto the napkin and begins to chop an imaginary carrot in a rocking rhythm. He raises a questioning eye. ‘‘I get it!” I say, delighted.

For years, I have wondered why, every time I attempt to slice them, my carrots fly around the room with ...