Keep it in the family

As the winter sun throws shadows across the polished stone pavements of Nuits-Saint-Georges, its vineyards are shrouded in a veil of smoke. Thin white lines of sweet wood smoke drift skyward before settling on stubs of twisted branches in the still a

As the winter sun throws shadows across the polished stone pavements of Nuits-Saint-Georges, its vineyards are shrouded in a veil of smoke. Thin white lines of sweet wood smoke drift skyward before settling on stubs of twisted branches in the still air.

The smoke comes from small, rusty oil drums filled with dead leaves, grass and pruned stubs. The contents are burnt by Burgundy vignerons, a tidy-up ritual that signals the beginning of ...