The Midwest is the birthplace of the American industrial revolution, the home of the airplane, the automobile, the transistor radio and the refrigerator. But it’s also frontier territory, where the Great Lakes and forests spill northwards into Canada.
Itching to experience the complex juxtaposition of this, the “nation’s heartland”, we exit Chicago and take the freeway south. Increasingly ramshackle clapboard homes and grim warehouses flank a string of rail lines which cede to...
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