We are sitting in Stary Rynek, Poznan's historic market square, eating zurek (sour cream, egg and sausage soup) from a crusty bread bowl outside Café Dramat, the faded royalty of the Town Hall dominating the view. At midday, accompanied by music, two goats emerge from the roof to head-butt each other, re-enacting their escape from a fabled city meeting. To the left, a horse-drawn carriage loops around the Pillory, a statue of knight on top...
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