Bordeaux’s identity crisis

The Bordeaux region of France produces more wine annually than the whole of the Australian continent. It has more than 60,000 identified wineries and chateaux, and, above all, it has an aura of finesse and historical allure that both wine lovers and those with only a passing interest in wine can appreciate.

There is one giant elephant in the Bordeaux room, however. Some 200 wines in the Medoc have been classified as Grand ...