Autumn Food Special: I would do this for free

Receiving a childhood present of a Jamie Oliver book set Kerry native John Relihan on the road to an increasingly glittering career in the food world, writes Alex Meehan.

John Relihan, head chef at Barbecoa.

Sipping coffee and waiting for John Relihan to emerge from his kitchen in Barbecoa, Jamie Oliver’s 150-seater barbecue restaurant in central London, it’s hard not to ponder how a 28-year-old from the remote village of Duagh in Co Kerry has ended up here.

Relihan, who has recently been appointed head chef of this meat mecca, is one of Oliver’s most prominent protégés. When he was 16, his uncle gave him a present of ...