A hidden gem by the Med

French Catalonia has it all: sparkling seas, blue skies, scenic villages and majestic castles. But best of all is the lack of other tourists, writes Conor Power.

The air-conditioning system had just run out of gas and droplets of sweat were forming on my eyebrows as I manoeuvred the family car around the soft bends high above the coastline. Everyone else - my wife and three boys - sweated silently in the 32 degree heat.

We were surely no more than five minutes from the Spanish border and looking for the sign that would show us which road to take ...