Australian chardonnay is one of the great wines of the world and I am waiting for the wine fashionistas to give it the nod again. In both the oaked Côte d'Or style and the unoaked Chablis style, these wines broke the mould and the pricing structures of Burgundy and California. But unoaked styles are sold way too young; they are often lean, citric offerings whose main virtue is lack of oak.
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