Maison Thorin, Chablis 2006, €17, from Spar, Eurospar and selected Spar Express Stores nationwide (87) The ubiquitous Spar group contributes significantly to the Irish wine scene, but many of the wines it stocks are big, safe brands, so except in an emergency, wine connoisseurs tend to avoid going to Spar for wine. But there are some idiosyncratic delights to be found in its branches.
This is particularly true of the French offerings, where insightful research...
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