3 wines to try, buy and put by
An astonishing wine from Frantz Saumon, a superstar from Portugal and a Chablis that has years of evolving potential.
Two triumphant decades of New World sauvignon blanc caused the Loire Valley to ditch its larger heritage and concentrate on picking up fringe sales of it. Chenin blanc - the other white grape of the Loire and the staple of Vouvray and Crémant de Loire - was almost forgotten. Happily, there is a revival under way.
Through his five-hectare microwinery, former Quebec lumberjack-turned-winemaker Frantz Saumon has become the prince of chenin...
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