A convincing advocate of bio-dynamic wines, Alvaro Espinoza has taken the more eccentric aspects of bio-dynamics (such as filling a bull’s horn with blood and burying it amongst the vines) and distilled a coherent rational agricultural practice out of them. The result is this spectacularly dense and chewy syrah mourvedre bursting with white pepper and glossy, ripe fruit. Novas, Syrah Mourvedre Winemakers Selection, DO Colchagna Valley, Chile, at €12 down from €14 at O’Briens Wines...
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