For a thousand years in north-west Italy, Barolo and Amarone were famed for their sweet red dessert wines - Recioto in Valpolicella and sweet red late harvest wines in Piedmont. The area is now famed for the Nebbiolo grape and its extracted, heavyweight wines that absorb plenty of oak, but there is another grape in the region, called Barbera, which is being overlooked. It is grippy, medium bodied and full of fresh, bright...
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