What a curiously up-and-down year it has been for Irish food. Wonderful new restaurants such as Aimsir opened and won richly-deserved international plaudits, and some young entrepreneurs managed to overcome rising costs to open their own places.
But at the same time, Vat was up, staff were increasingly hard to come by, and international chains, restaurant groups and cash-rich investors went full Celtic Tiger by blinging up their interiors and totally forgetting about their actual...
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