Restaurant review: Throwing big shapes in the Wee County

Up-and-coming chef Conor Halpenny has hit culinary paydirt with his new restaurant Square

Gillian Nelis

Managing Editor @gnelis
2nd February, 2020
Restaurant review: Throwing big shapes in the Wee County
The Square restaurant, Dundalk: chef Conor Halpenny was the 2017 winner of the Euro Toques young chef of the year competition Picture: Barry Cronin

“I‘d travel for that cabbage” is not a sentence you hear very often. But if you’d been in Square, a small restaurant in Dundalk in Co Louth recently, you would have heard it uttered several times by my dinner guest.

The cabbage in question was that most fashionable one, hispi, and it had been served up as a side dish by chef Conor Halpenny, who was the 2017 winner...

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