Food & Wine

The Secret Restaurateur: Lessons on chicken wings, from teenagers and The Economist

Our industry insider may once have regarded the humble buffalo wing as beneath them, but now they’re giving the people what they want

“Over the years, our wings had shown themselves to be seriously addictive to our regular customers; too addictive, in some cases.” Picture: Getty

Every restaurateur has a dish, or perhaps several, that we love to hate, either because they have expensive ingredients and low margins, or because we feel they aren't really a good fit for our restaurants. The only thing that saves them from being axed from our menus is customer demand.

My own particular bugbear is perhaps an unlikely one: buffalo chicken wings. I realise this sounds ridiculous, but please hear me out. Wings and I ...