wine

Cathal McBride: Small can be beautiful when it comes to wine, as chenin blanc proves

This diminutive but versatile grape forms the backbone of the South African wine sector, but it’s only recently that winemakers have begun to realise the potential of old vines in making high-quality single varietals

Chenin blanc grapes: lusciously textural yet not too weighty, this wine always sails in with a refreshing backbone of acidity to give it life. Picture: Getty

Every time I taste a chenin blanc, I wonder why I don’t drink it more often. Lusciously textural yet not too weighty, this wine always sails in with a refreshing backbone of acidity to give it life. It’s also an excellent accompaniment for a host of dishes, from seafood, salads and fried fish all the way to rich plates and spicy south-east Asian cuisine with off-dry expressions that contain a touch of sweetness.

Versatility is ...