Food & Wine

‘When I finished college, I kept cooking. I began to think “this is what I’m good at, I might as well stick with it”’

Ethna Reynolds may have a degree in fine arts, but she has always been drawn to the kitchen. She tells Joe McNamee why her new restaurant, Nádúr in Sligo, has been the perfect post-pandemic project

Eithna Reynolds at her Nadur Restaurant in Coolaney, Co Sligo. Picture: James Connolly

Almost a decade ago, I judged a newspaper Christmas cake competition. With Darina Allen as a fellow judge, her original fanbase was out in force, many of them wielding family recipes zealously guarded through generations.

Despite individual twists and tweaks, all of the entries, even in the coeliac and gluten-free category, riffed on a common theme of traditional, dense and fruit-rich.

Then there was the solitary outlier in the creative category: a goat’s cheese and ...