Ruling the roost with full-flavoured classics

The Pigeon House at the Delgany Inn, Delgany, Co Wicklow: its customers may have got younger, but its food has remained high-quality Pic: Maura Hickey

The Pigeon House,

The Delgany Inn, Delgany, Co Wicklow

01-2877103, pigeonhouse.ie/delgany

Chef: Françoise Jacusse

Is it inevitable that as you get older, time speeds up? I ask because I could have sworn it was two years – three at the most – since I’d reviewed the Pigeon House in Delgany. But no: it was actually October 2014, when Brexit was just a glint in David Cameron’s eye, and well over 100,000 people were ...