Raising the steaks

The perfectly cooked kidneys in a creamy bacon and mushroom sauce at FX Buckley in Monkstown are the kind of food that, if you’re an offal enthusiast like me, you’ll be dreaming about it long after you’ve eaten them

FX Buckley in Monkstown, Co Dublin, is a gloriously dark proper steakhouse PIc: Fergal Phillips

FX Buckley

The Crescent, Monkstown, Co Dublin

01-2846187, fxbuckley.ie

Chef: Paul Regan

This review was supposed to be coming to you from a new-ish restaurant in south Dublin offering what sounded like a very appetising menu of Middle Eastern-inspired salads and other dishes with a heavy emphasis on veggies.

“Dinner served on Wednesdays from 5pm,” its website proclaimed. “Dinner not served at all on Wednesdays” would be more accurate, we soon realised, as ...