Delicious dishes, great value – and the best spuds in town

The Andarl Farm pork at Mister S will blow your mind if – like me – you were raised to expect pork chops to come to the table not so much well done as overcooked to the point of incineration

Daniel Hannigan, head chef at Mister S: it’s walk-ins only, but worth it for the roast potatoes alone

Mister S

32 Camden St, Dublin 2

A few tables down from us in Mr S, a man is having a private moment with a bowl of potatoes. This relatively new restaurant on Camden Street in Dublin is packed to the gills, but he only has eyes for these tubers, and he’s savouring every bite like a man eating his last meal.

“We’re ordering them,” I inform my dinner guest. “What are they ...